Thread: Bit by the Big, Bad HDMI Bug (Bmpcc)

Page 5 of 5 FirstFirst ... 345
Results 41 to 50 of 50
  1. #41  
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2017
    Posts
    276
    Hmm interesting, so the recommendation when using cheap parts is to power from different batteries.

    Changes my plan but I don't want to fry my camera or monitor. So I think I will adjust this Sony npf to v mount adapter to simply hold each battery. Then use dummy connectors and run them individually at 7.4v into the lpe6 slot. Not exactly what I wanted but still will allow me to shift and balance the weight of the batteries to the rear.
    Reply With Quote  
     

  2. #42  
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Posts
    1,790
    Quote Originally Posted by PeopleCanFly View Post
    I guess I was lucky the entire time I used the Blackmagic EVF on this rig, then? I also powered that via the same D-taps. Do you have any recommendations on battery plates? I've been using the Wooden Camera V-mount plate and Battery Slide. I wouldn't mind using a similar setup to what I have if I can, but maybe with a Micro camera for 60p if I stick to the smaller cameras.
    I don't think you were lucky, that's the point I'm making. The EVF uses 4 pin XLR, which is all but impervious to arcing as is dtap, the EVF most likely has better isolation as well. Did the monitor use a DC barrel connector? It sounds like you first cooked the mini converter, then the camera, then another camera. Sounds repeatable and not a question of luck, my guess is that the monitor or cable used is the poisoned pill in this scenario.

    Connector.jpg

    At first glance these 2 connectors are quite similar, right angle aside, take a closer look at the angle plug, see how the center conductor (+) is actually flush with the tip rather than recessed. With this system it's easy to see how the positive would be applied to the camera first then the ground becomes the monitor through the video interconnect or vice versa.

    I don't know how you would isolate the ground between 2 interconnected DC devices, once they are connected via BNC or HDMI the grounds become common unless the signal in/out is isolated on one of the devices in which case there can be no loop anyway.
    Reply With Quote  
     

  3. #43  
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Location
    USA N. CA
    Posts
    2,295
    Howie, sorry to hear about your camera HDMI issues. I was referring to isolating the two power output grounds on the battery by using a BDS, which does isolate the ground outputs, to reduce any,chance of stray voltage potential across the two grounds. Also your example with the power plugs is another issue that could cause issues. Yiu are correct, you always want the ground connected first, the 4-pin XLR does this with the connector body, which is also ground, or a barrel connector like BM uses, that yiu show in yiur example.

    Ryan, using two NP970 battereis in a VMount adapter is a lot less current than a 75 or 150 watt V Lock battery. The high current batteries really need isolated grounds in multi tap situations, or regulated power output ports. I use a regulated dummy battery on one side of the Gold Mount plate (the normal camera connection on the plate) and the monitor via the DTap on the plate (I am using Anton Bauer Gold Mount plates with a isolated DTap output). You can check any voltage leaks across the gound of the battery output side and the DTap side. Newer battereis with built in DTsp should also be isolated, as well as the USM 5-volt taps. Again meter them to be sure.

    By using the regulated dummy battery, I can connect the camera via the dummy, and use the 14.5 VDC DTap to power the PixE monitor on the Micro Studio, which uses a Video Devices positive locking power cable on the monitor end and the DTsp,on the battery end. So far no issues. Another setup I use with the Micro Cinema, is the Atomos Power Station, using NP970 batteries and outputs the 7.2/4 VDC from the batts wired in parallel, so as one battery gets low, it can be switched out without loss of power, and the amps is the same as on battery, so no high voltage potential issues here either. You can also feed the Atomos unit with 14.45 VDC from a DTap, and it will regulate it back down to 7.4 VDC at the outputs (whichmthe dummy battery connects to. It also comes with several dummy battery plates, including LP-E6, NP (Sony),and a Nikon dummy.
    Cheers
    Reply With Quote  
     

  4. #44  
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Posts
    1,790
    Thanks Denny but I didn't cook the HDMI port, I cooked whatever lets me soft power the camera on/off when connected to 12v via the expansion port, battery power still works normally. I wrongly assumed it was the 4.7 update but was more likely the blue fireball that shot out of my camera when using the right angle connector illustrated above. I actually have yet to hear of a single case of fried port on any of the micros or Ursa cameras, my guess is that BM figured it out and now has isolated/protected IO to avoid ground loop issues. Literally everyone using a micro camera is using an external monitor and no ill reports, I'd say whatever earlier issues they had have been sorted.
    Reply With Quote  
     

  5. #45  
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2017
    Posts
    276
    So it's back to plan A then.
    Reply With Quote  
     

  6. #46  
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Location
    Virginia, US
    Posts
    681
    Don't a lot of Micro users use Canon batteries or 12v batteries like the Juicebox with their Micro cameras instead of V-mounts like I do? That and separate batteries on the monitor?

    I'm heavily leaning towards a Micro now, I just need to work out how to best utilize the expansion port for my needs. Too bad I'm not much of a DIY guy...
    Reply With Quote  
     

  7. #47  
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
    Location
    USA N. CA
    Posts
    2,295
    Most of the time, I just use the original a Canon battery on the camera, works better than the party batteries, runs the camera a little longer, before the voltage drops below 7.2. The issue is not so much the battereis, it is the Micro camera quits running when voltage on battery drops below 7.2 VDC, where most cameras will drop down to 7VDC or a little less. Using separate batteries for the camera and monitor is the best and safest way to go. This is what I do most of the time. Large V Mount or Gold Mount batts are overkill, unless you need real loooooong recording times. Another option is the Sony NP to LP-E6 battery bridge, that allows you to mount a Sony type NP 701/901 battery on the Micro camera, and get up to 3-hrs run time on the Micro camera.
    See http://www.bmcuser.com/showthread.ph...ridge-Feedback
    Cheers
    Reply With Quote  
     

  8. #48  
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Posts
    1,790
    Here's a fun and somewhat ridiculous list of all the power solutions I've used or tried with both the VA or the PixE

    a dozen Lpe6 batteries-worried fine, lots of battery changes
    the Squid-worked fine, horrible mess
    SmallHD dummy-didn't work not enough voltage
    generic dummy-didn't fit until I shaved the alignment slot on the camera
    GyroVu dummy-perfect fit, was my longtime solution, I purchased a few of these and converted them to 12V XLR
    custom GyroVu dummy/DC barrel Y powered from DC 12v XLR power supply-used this for years, I hardly ever need batteries
    GyroVu dummy to XLR powered from 12v output of a broadcast camera-worked fine
    NPF bridge, needed to put tape over center tabs-awkward fit worked fine
    NPF Bridge & Swit 8972 w/dc port-crapped out in under an hour
    Anton Bauer NPs-2+ hours with 2 batts powering cam & monitor (PixE is hungry as is the Micro 4K)
    Powerextra battery similar to the Swit-went poof when I plugged in a DC barrel after first charge, returned and never actually tried
    Smallrig V mount plate, Shijan's expansion box, IndiPro tools 98wh compact battery, custom Dtap to DC Y cable-4+ hours for both devices, winner, winner, chicken dinner.

    Probably forgetting some but you get the gist.
    Reply With Quote  
     

  9. #49  
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Posts
    521
    Quote Originally Posted by PeopleCanFly View Post
    Don't a lot of Micro users use Canon batteries or 12v batteries like the Juicebox with their Micro cameras instead of V-mounts like I do? That and separate batteries on the monitor?
    I'm heavily leaning towards a Micro now, I just need to work out how to best utilize the expansion port for my needs. Too bad I'm not much of a DIY guy...
    We certainly do and we produce pretty evenly between controlled/set and "live" action. I keep about 6 Canon batteries per Micro and on a long day of shooting may need to change 3 times which takes about 10 seconds. So unless you're shooting long continuous events (and who does that with cinema cameras?), I can't see why you'd bother rigging additional and bulky power when this all works so well and small and light
    I've set up two Micros for our kit and I'd be happy to talk to you about it but it's pretty simple: Smallrig cage (with the new and awesome Smallrig monitor mount), Ikan VL35 (that takes a single Canon battery) a Kinotehnik Loupe, 6 or so Canon LE batteries. This cost $500 - $600 total or about $1600 per Micro system w/camera.
    Best deal in HD filming and it doesn't require any DIY skills.
    Reply With Quote  
     

  10. #50  
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Location
    Virginia, US
    Posts
    681
    Now that I've got a replacement converter box on the way, I figured I'd finally tear into the one I have to see if I did any damage. Turns out, yea, the underside of the HDMI input is...crispy. No wonder I can't get anything out of it, either.



    On the plus side, there's plenty of room inside to add some extra hardware to make this easier to mount to a rig.
    Reply With Quote  
     

Similar Threads

  1. BMPCC and DP7 HDMI > SDI Out
    By karn105 in forum General Discussion
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 05-13-2015, 03:44 PM
  2. FS: BMPCC, BMPCC Speedbooster, Movcam Cage/HDMI lock, Zacuto BMPCC EVF
    By Alán Ortiz in forum For Sale / Want to Buy
    Replies: 8
    Last Post: 02-16-2015, 10:30 PM
  3. HDMI out setting in BMPCC
    By carlmart in forum General Discussion
    Replies: 4
    Last Post: 03-25-2014, 01:53 PM
  4. Replies: 2
    Last Post: 03-10-2014, 11:15 AM
  5. HDMI Lock for BMPCC
    By Yaz0328 in forum General Discussion
    Replies: 17
    Last Post: 02-10-2014, 10:54 AM
Bookmarks
Bookmarks
Posting Permissions
  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •