Thread: BMMCC with a v mount converter?

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  1. #71  
    Senior Member shijan's Avatar
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    tonybeccar, sounds like great idea to use step up voltage converter to get 12V output from single sony f970 battery
    Last edited by shijan; 10-25-2017 at 01:51 AM.
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  2. #72  
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    So I took Core 50s idea and used the Smallrig plate for the V-Mount and built a D-tap cable that powers both the camera via expansion box and the monitor. I like the idea of the Smallrig plate as opposed to a dedicated battery plate because I can always use the plate in the future as a monitor/wireless/accessory mount when I inevitably switch cameras. I went with the Indipro Tools compact 98wh battery, cost is $239 and includes a charger. I get a solid 4 hours of recording time without having to change batteries or cards which I'm digging. With the NPF bridge and NP F970 batteries that would take 4 batteries to get that much time, that's 8-12 for a full day of shooting.

    Shijan, if you're still monitoring this thread I had an idea for the expansion box. Since it would be rare for most to use both Lanc and Sbus or Lanc and PWM, it might be cool to lose one of the ports and have an option for a pushbutton on/off switch. The only thing I'm not stoked about on this setup is that the camera powers on every time I connect a battery. My first shot at making a D-Tap cable I used the wrong connector, 5.5X2.5mm instead of 5.5X2.1mm, and it made a pretty good arc inside the box.

    V-Lock.jpg
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  3. #73  
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    Howie you could add a power switch into your d tap cable if you wanted, like the one that is on a lamp cable.
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  4. #74  
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    Quote Originally Posted by LJR View Post
    This is what I want to. I'm currently using the Juicebox battery, and while it works, the battery is slightly off center in my configuration and the y-cable I had to create to power the micro and the monitor is kind of annoying. It would be great to eliminate cables and center the battery on the back.
    There's a version 2.0 that fixes that issue. Check it out on their official site.
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  5. #75  
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ryanite View Post
    Howie you could add a power switch into your d tap cable if you wanted, like the one that is on a lamp cable.
    An OG brown lamp cord switch as the power switch for a 4K video camera is almost poetic. I like to keep my cable runs simple so I'll probably just pull the Lanc port and replace it with a micro pushbutton SPST switch, my lenses are all manual so Lanc functionality is cool but I'll never use it. It's ultimately a little weird that the camera just powers up, I've owned 20 or so cameras and used hundreds and I can't think of a single one that just starts once you plug it in other than maybe a Panasonic robo, but those cameras don't have power switches because there is absolutely no control at the head.
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  6. #76  
    Senior Member shijan's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Howie Roll View Post
    Shijan, if you're still monitoring this thread I had an idea for the expansion box. Since it would be rare for most to use both Lanc and Sbus or Lanc and PWM, it might be cool to lose one of the ports and have an option for a pushbutton on/off switch. The only thing I'm not stoked about on this setup is that the camera powers on every time I connect a battery. My first shot at making a D-Tap cable I used the wrong connector, 5.5X2.5mm instead of 5.5X2.1mm, and it made a pretty good arc inside the box.
    Expansion Box use 5.5X2.1mm DC power socket and it is should be compatible with 5.5X2.5mm plugs because pin is 0.4mm smaller diameter. The socket itself is slightly stiff, this is nature if its design. I check every socket on every box with original BMMCC 5.5X2.5mm plug and with 5.5X2.1mm before shipping.
    It is possible that first time you just get a less precise made DC plug with cable. Try to insert plug into the box not too fast and slightly rotate it.

    On-Off switcher integrated into the box is nice idea for custom builds but need to check if latching switchers are exists in so small size.

    Screen-Shot-2017-11-01-at-11.32.51-AM.jpg
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  7. #77  
    Junior Member Antithese's Avatar
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    I just got SmallRig Battery Back 1547, SmallRig V-Lock Assembly Kit 1846, Juicebox V-Mount Battery and Charger (95Wh).
    So far, so good.

    I can also mount chocolate

    P1160474.jpg

    P1160481.jpg

    P1160489.jpg

    P1160494.jpg

    P1160500.jpg

    P1160530.jpg
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  8. #78  
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    Looks good, but be careful powering both the monitor and camera with a splitter type cable. This could lead to a ground loop situation in the HDMI to camera to monitor connection. A better idea is to use a BDS between the battery and camera/monitor that has isolated ground connections on the power tap outputs. There have been a ver reports of HDMI piers getting fried. Also connect cables to camera send monitor first, HDMI next and batter connection last.
    Cheers
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  9. #79  
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    Quote Originally Posted by Denny Smith View Post
    A better idea is to use a BDS between the battery and camera/monitor that has isolated ground connections on the power tap outputs...
    see I never understand this idea- and it may very well just be me being ignorant - but how do you exactly 'isolate grounds' when they will end up at the same contact terminal on the battery one way or another?

    can someone explain how this works in more detail?
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  10. #80  
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    While it is called “isolated” it is more like any cross voltage on the output grounds is eliminated with an electronic circuit. The grounds, as you pointed out still combine at the battery. Kind of similar, but not the same as a house wiring can have isolated grounds run to outlet boxes, and the neutral and ground are separate throughout the house runs and sub panels, but the ground and neutral are still combined at the main meter panel. Uncut unlike DC, AC circuits still have a voltage potential between the neutral and hot, but not between the neutral and ground.

    A DC circuit needs a diode/transitor/capacitor circuit to eliminate any voltage leak between multiple grounds. Kind of complicated to explain, but what a good BDS does, is eliminate an potential voltage leak between the power output grounds, and insures each power outlet is getting the correct power load to the device connected, kind of like a voltage regulator, but not always (but can) regulating the actual voltage output.

    Best case would to use a voltage regulated BDS for the Micro camera's output, which would solve any cross voltage issues.
    Cheers
    Last edited by Denny Smith; 11-29-2017 at 02:27 PM.
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