Thread: What is the best overall IR-Cut Solution for my setup?

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  1. #1 What is the best overall IR-Cut Solution for my setup? 
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    Hello all.

    Sounds like many of you are pros on IR pollution when it comes to a camera with no OLPF and ND filters. I have recently entered your world with the GH5, which to my surprise, has caused all sorts of problems when using my Tiffen Variable ND Filter.

    Upgrading to the SLR Magic Variable ND has not solved those.

    I have since learned all about the need for IR cut. Here are my questions:

    I use the XUME Camera lens attach system with all lenses stepped up to 77mm, and then rotate Variable ND/other filters to all lenses. I have 10 lenses that I need to protect from IR pollution when using an ND filter. No mattebox or rails.

    Option A: Purchase a Tiffen Variable IRND Filter. Is this enough? There does not appear to be another Variable IRND fader option. Also, it seems this is 2-4 weeks out for shipment on B&H which is quite inconvenient.

    Option B: Purchased a static set of Hoya IRND filters (.3, .6, .9, 1.2, etc.), but lose the ability to use a fader, which can work a minority of the time, but is highly problematic for run'n'gun operation. Also more expensive. Highly un-ideal for me.

    Option C: Apply the fan favorite "Hoya UV-IR Digital Multi-Coated Slim Frame Glass Filter" to each and every single lens (around 10x) in place of my currently installed B+W UV Filters (no IR-cut). Expensive, about $715 priced out on Amazon for all my lenses, with a 5% discount via the Amazon Prime Store Card.

    I suppose a possible "Option D" would be to get a single 77mm Hoya IR-Cut filter with XUME, slap it on the end of a lens, then attached the SLR Magic Variable ND stacked also on XUME... but then I'm stacking multiple filters at the end with magnets (possible vignetting, less stability, especially when using a rotating VND) and moving multiple filters every lens change, and... meh. Workable if strapped for cash, but it seems Option C would be the best "money is no object" solution?


    So...

    1. Which Option and why?

    2. Any other considerations? (IE too many filters? too much IR cut? not enough IR cut? problems with leaving an IR-cut filter perma installed? ghosting, etc.?)

    3. If I have these Hoya UV-IR Filters permanently affixed to every lens, should I use a Variable IRND or any other IRND filter? Or just normal? Would an IRND be TOO much IR-Cut?

    4. Is it OK to leave the IR-cut filter perma installed even when shooting in studio conditions, indoors, evening, night, morning, fog, overcast, etc. etc.? If I went with "Option C", those filters would never come off, and would be semi-buried under lens hoods, etc.

    5. Is it a problem to use lenses with UV-IR cut filters installed on a different camera that has an OLPF w/IR cut installed into it? (Sony FS5/FS7, Canon C-series, Panasonic AF100 or new EVA-1, etc.) Too much IR cut/greenish tint? Or A-OK?


    Thank you for your kind help!
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  2. #2  
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    well you can buy one IR cut filter that fits on the end of your existing Variable ND...

    also, in time you will find that the variable ND has drawbacks. It works with two polarizing filters stacked over eachother, and polarizing filters can diminish highlights making skin look flat and posterized as one example.
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  3. #3  
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    I would love to, but the Hoya UV-IR filter isn't made in an 86mm Thread Diameter :/ (this is what the front threading of the SLR Magic Variable ND-Filter is). (There is, however, a B+W version: https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/produ..._86mm_486.html).

    I could perma screw a 77mm Hoya UV-IR filter directly onto the SLR Magic VND on the rear, and then affix the XUME adapter to that point though I suppose... then I wouldn't be magnetically stacking filters at the end of my chain? Might this be better than affixing $700 of UV-IR Cut glass directly to each lens?

    Still very curious about the other questions to understand the science behind it as well.

    Please note that I currently have a B+W UV XS-Pro filter attached directly to each of my lenses as well.
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  4. #4  
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    I went with Option B myself. The following works very nicely with the BMPCC, especially with the XUME filter holders and a belt clip filter pouch.

    https://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/produ..._0_9_irnd.html

    I don't find it necessary to have the full range of filters, though. The .9 is sufficient for outdoor work, with an IR only for indoor.
    Last edited by Jim Simon; 08-16-2017 at 11:18 AM.
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  5. #5  
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    Can anyone else speak into some of the questions mentioned above?

    Such as doubling up on IR filters, using with a camera that already has an in-built IR filter, best brand for a static set of IRNDs, leaving an IR filter perma installed for indoors, etc. etc.?
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  6. #6  
    Senior Member rick.lang's Avatar
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    I rely on the Schneider B+W 486MRC 86mm filter on my SLR Magic Vari-ND mark II 82mm filter. Tested it and it works very well. Schneider may not make the B+W anymore as it's been around many years, but they'll have a more modern replacement. If you want 86mm (good choice), see what else Schneider offers and let us know your decision.
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  7. #7  
    Senior Member Frank Glencairn's Avatar
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    I still rely on a combination of Heliopan vari- ND and Heliopan IR, plus some adapter rings that live on my lenses, to make them fit the filter combination.

    1. The Heliopan doesn't polarize, so that's out of the way.
    2. I don't like fixed filters, as I don't like onboard filters, cause both are not precise enough, the steps are to coarse.
    So it's always a compromise, and you have to sacrifice ether iris, or relight, to compensate for this.
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