Thread: Ursa mini pro shooting against black wall

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  1. #1 Ursa mini pro shooting against black wall 
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2013

    I will be shooting against a black wallpaper soon, and I am pretty sure that the FPN will come up. But as long as I light my actor good, and crush the blacks a bit in post. It should be no problem right?

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  2. #2  
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Light & expose your scene a stop brighter than "normal", then bring it down that one stop in post. I'd treat FPN like any noise, really. Expose the scene in such a way as to push it below the noise floor. There's enough headroom in the UMP's dynamic range to accommodate a stop or two's worth of push on set.
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  3. #3  
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
    Last week I just did some interview shoots with the Ursa Mini 4K against a black backdrop and that UM4K is even worse for FPN than the 4.6K but it all worked out great.

    I'll tell you what I did for the UM4K (would probably do the same for UM4.6K / UMP) and you can take it or leave it:

    I shot in RAW 4:1, but I understand if that's not feasible for your project, but if you can do it, do it!

    Try to have at least 5 feet or more between your subject and the backdrop (to reduce any spill from your fill). Mo' space = mo' better.

    Set the ISO to 200, then light the scene.

    Make sure to have a good rim light up nice and high and flag it off so that it doesn't spill onto your backdrop (the darker you can crush that backdrop, the less likely you are to see any FPN in there - just DON'T LIFT IT in post!).

    Use a nice soft fill raised a couple feet above subject head-height and on as much of a cross angle as you can get from your camera position so that the soft shadows are cast more to the side or edge rather than behind your subject (again, angle and flag if it helps to reduce any spill onto the backdrop) - without completely side lighting your subject. You can adjust your rimlight position to model the unlit side of the face a little more if you need to.
    A lot of positioning details depend on the size of your studio, the size of the backdrop, the distance to subject and the lens being used, so just move things around to get you frame you are looking for.

    That's all I did and it worked great. Obviously what I described gets you a particular dramatic look for lighting, but it might work for you too.
    For my setup I just used two lights, I probably could have added more, but I was really trying to control any spill, so going with fewer lights was definitely easier to manage, plus I personally really like that simple look a lot.

    Hopefully there is something in there that helps you, good luck!
    Last edited by JuMo; 06-24-2017 at 01:09 PM.
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