Thread: Mini 4.6k FW 4.2

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  1. #41  
    Senior Member AndrewDeme's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Alex.Mitchell View Post
    He called a spade a spade. Frankly, if you're so above it then it aught to behoove you to have a level headed response.
    Merry Christmas....
    Lotsa Zeon thingos with thousands of cute cores...enough is never enough

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  2. #42  
    Senior Member rick.lang's Avatar
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    Just as an experiment, I left my camera running for two days in my office that was a bit cool but comfortable! Didn't notice anything different on the screen. The BM Viewfinder was warm, but nothing to be concerned about. There was some slightly detectable warmth rising from the top vents on the URSA Mini 4.6K. It was quite stable, probably all very similar to what it would be if I had the camera running for an hour.
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  3. #43  
    Senior Member AndrewDeme's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rick.lang View Post
    Just as an experiment, I left my camera running for two days in my office that was a bit cool but comfortable! Didn't notice anything different on the screen. The BM Viewfinder was warm, but nothing to be concerned about. There was some slightly detectable warmth rising from the top vents on the URSA Mini 4.6K. It was quite stable, probably all very similar to what it would be if I had the camera running for an hour.

    The warmer it gets the warmer it gets...is how Peltier Coolers work.
    Lotsa Zeon thingos with thousands of cute cores...enough is never enough

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  4. #44  
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    I was able to use some of a suggestion from another forum and finally able to perform a black shade calibration that got it to show ISO 1600 to be as equally black as all the other ISOs in complete darkness.
    https://forum.blackmagicdesign.com/v...=55468#p319206

    I tried the above wih lens cap on the lens and it was not successful so lens cap on the body is needed.
    I also have to set it to ISO 1600. I know others say about ISO does not matter when performing black shading and I cant offer any explanation why it should.

    You may want to check. Place a cap on your camera body and watch the LCD screen in a very dark room. Then compare each ISO setting and see if the screen gets brighter especially ISO 1600 if there are FPN?
    I finally got mine to look equally dark in all the ISOs. Thats said I have yet to see much different in real world use but this may show up in more critical comparison.
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