Thread: Optar Illumina S16 16mm Test

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  1. #11  
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    Quote Originally Posted by Denny Smith View Post
    The Zeiss 9.5 Mk2/3 will cover the BMPCC/Micro Cinema camera sensor, as it is slightly smaller than the S16 film gate, the 9.5 just did not manage to quite cover. The 9.5 image circle is only slightly smaller than the 12, (both tested on a MFT sensor to compare the projected circle). The Optars have a larger projected image circle, so edge sharpness is improved over the Zeiss lenses.
    Cheers
    Well, the Zeiss 9.5 mk1 (which has an exagon iris) covers also perfectly the s16/Pocket/Micro frame, at all stops (optics are the same as mk2/3). There is a very very insignificant blur at the extreme corners.
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  2. #12  
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    Good to know, I had read some reports of the Zeiss SS (HS) Mk1 9.5 vignetting, but I think that mist have been a "out of alignment" copy, on one older lens, and the other report was trying to use the lens in a Super 16 film camera full gate.

    While the optical design is the same, coatings were improved on the Mk2 and 3 from what I have read. Also the Mk1s were designed to fit a camera blimp, somhave a short focus throw, compared to the Mk 2 and 3, which have a redesigned focus helical. Also the biggest issue with the otherwise smaller, and excellent Mk1s, according to a Duclos Lens tech I talked to, is parts for the Mk 1s are next to impossible to source, and used copies have well worn focus helix, which can cause the image to shift during focusing. Also the lens element mounting on the Mk2/3 are improved. The newer Mk2/3 are still readily serviceable, with available parts, including the focus helix, front and rear lens elements. I had to have the focus helix replaced on both of my Zeiss SS, due to wear caused by previous owners using them without having the lens mechanics serviced.
    Cheers
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  3. #13  
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    Good info Denny. I used extensively the mk1 from the super 16 ages (including also the 9.5, which I consider the best of all with minimal distorsion). I have also serviced them. Never had to change any part... basically take care of the helicoids and "restore" the shape of the central guide (which tends to deform and cause the "play" while focusing).
    I like the mk1 set for the Pocket due its smaller size and lightness... Perfect for a gimball work.
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  4. #14  
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    Yes, this is the advantage of the Mk1s, which were designed for the smaller S16 film cameras in use then.
    I agree on the 9.5, it does have less distortion than the 12mm, which is why I got the 9.5. I have a mint 12mm Mk3, just serviced by Duclos, for sale if anyone is interested. PM me.
    Cheers
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  5. #15  
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    I'd be really cautious trying to disassemble the Illuminas. I was going to send my set in to have them serviced and the guy at Duclos wouldn't even take my money. I'd have understood if it was just a single lens but a set of 6 is a days work. Instead I sent them to Visual Products in Ohio. I was estimating about 6-8 hours and they only charged me for 3, turned them around in a week. Paul is the guy and you have to call him because he doesn't have a computer. Old school.
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  6. #16  
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    Thanks Howie, forgot Duclos would not service Illumina Optars lenses. But CinemaTechnic in LA will also service the Optar SS lenses, according to their site.
    Cheers
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  7. #17  
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    Quote Originally Posted by lluiscl View Post
    But you need to clean all helicoids. If I remember correctly after disassemble the rear mount you'll find the two central guides... You need to remove them (both with two screws) and unscrew the focus ring, which contains two parts screwed...(with the screw that you mention which limits the focus range). You need to remove it and unscrew both parts and clean both helicoids and later do the same with the central helicoids... Of course is PRIMORDIAL to mark everything (some helicoids can have different entry points) and leave everything at the same point when you assemble it.
    All the best
    Great, thanks for tip! Done as you wrote and now it feels way better. The focus stiffness now is almost the same as iris gear, but much smoother of course.
    One thread coil moves element about 1mm or more, so unfortunately is too large for adjusting back focus to compensate OLPF filter.
    The disassemble was way simpler than in vintage OKS lenses. Threads are machined very well. I find some dust and metal particles inside. The original grease was almost dry and very sticky. One of the inner threads was covered with same black surface as outer part of the lens which probably makes rotation less smoother, so i cleaned that paint too. Both parts are single-threaded, so it is very easy to assemble all back even without marks. Larger focal distances lenses probably will be double/triple-threaded and in this cace it will be not so easy to assemble them correctly if you lost a marks.
    Always mark a starting point and count how many turns you do when unscrew the element! Always do a photos of each step, it also helps a lot.





    Last edited by shijan; 12-11-2016 at 11:48 PM.
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  8. #18  
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    Congratulations Shijan!!
    You knew what you were doing (advice for begginers).
    With a little of practise its a 15/30 minutes job...
    I read that Optars were irregular in collimated. The wide angles lens are even more delicate in back focus... I had to collimate my 8mm with a 0,03mm shim, put it between the mount and the brass ring, because a real 1m distance was like 0,9 in the mark ring... (with my arri bay-M4/3 adapter, perfect with the Zeiss HS set).
    Last edited by lluiscl; 12-11-2016 at 05:10 AM.
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  9. #19  
    what have you paid for your lenses? Zeiss SuperSpeed Mk1 are supposed the be 1k each, so whats a good price on the Illuminas?
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  10. #20  
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    For single lenses in PL mount the going rate is typically $800-1200, you can pick them up a little cheaper if you buy a set which is true of most lenses.

    Dan Kanes is offering a set here for $4800 bucks which is a pretty solid deal, especially if they don't need any work. http://www.bmcuser.com/showthread.ph...optar+illumina
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