Thread: De-clicking Contax MM

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  1. #11  
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    I think I have exhausted all searching avenues for now with no luck on finding some pictures of an MM opened up. The de-click looks easy enough but as JLdp points out it’s creating a permanent mod to make smooth action on the aperture ring that’s unclear. I’ve sent emails to Duclos and the Len Doctors to see if they’ll reveal their secrets. I’d like to find a broken Contax to run a trial on.
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  2. #12  
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    Quote Originally Posted by yadnom1973 View Post
    I have been warned. It certainly needs dampening thatís for sure, wonít be much use otherwise. Iím interested to hear about the grease. There are types of especially synthetic grease that are not affected by heat, and maybe it wouldnít migrate around inside the back of the lens if stiff enough but there is something I really donít trust about it. Iíll try to find out what kind of grease they are using, this is Duclos I presume? And where and how itís applied. As for the felt wearing, maybe, though itíd take a respectable amount of time, Iíve seen felt or something very similar used for dampening inside mechanisms older than me. Does anyone else know about this grease? Or felt bunching coursing problems for de-clicks? Or just some posts about opening the MM without the de-clicking. For such a popular lens Iím surprised thereís so little out there.
    Because most of the people who are shelling out for these lenses for video/cinema use are having them cine modded by Duclos, RP Lens, Lens Doctor, etc. And those lenses are being used on high end productions with great success. The lens techs know what they're doing. And if something were to go wrong with the grease, which I doubt, they will fix it. I thought about doing the whole procedure myself as well, but at the end of the day I want someone who works with lenses every day to do it so I don't have to yell at myself when I screw it up. :-)
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  3. #13  
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    I can understand getting it done professionally if you have the money and no time. But the mounts you can order and install yourself, though there’s some care to be taken removing the screws, I believe they are JIS. I managed to find someone making the gear rings too and they have worked perfectly and were very simple to put on. Both of those would have been daft for me to pay for. The de-clicking is trickier though it seems. I’m not feeling so confident. Unless I can find a little guide somewhere I might also end up paying for this. If I could just find someone who knows what they’re doing to explain a little. I’ll keep looking for a while.
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  4. #14  
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    Quote Originally Posted by yadnom1973 View Post
    I can understand getting it done professionally if you have the money and no time. But the mounts you can order and install yourself, though thereís some care to be taken removing the screws, I believe they are JIS. I managed to find someone making the gear rings too and they have worked perfectly and were very simple to put on. Both of those would have been daft for me to pay for. The de-clicking is trickier though it seems. Iím not feeling so confident. Unless I can find a little guide somewhere I might also end up paying for this. If I could just find someone who knows what theyíre doing to explain a little. Iíll keep looking for a while.
    Installing mounts is not too difficult - unless you come across a cemented screw that is very stubborn. Then you have to be very careful. I ordered lens gears from helicoptersean. Most went on okay, the 28mm Hollywood, not so much. The rubber kept folding up. Not sure if it's just my lens or just the way it is. Might have to have a ring installed on that one. But for sure, unless you really know what you are doing, getting the dampening correct is probably best left to lens techs in my opinion. Spend once, cry once. :-)
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  5. #15  
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    Yeah I striped a screw a few years back and learnt the hard way, the chap in the felt video taps the top of the screw driver to break the cement first which I thought was clever. Helicoptersean did my gears too, I think he’s the only place to go. If you tell him about the 28 he’ll adjust the sizing for you, he’s very helpful like that, but one lens is not such a cost.
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  6. #16  
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    If I was to look for someone in the UK dose anyone have any suggestions?
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  7. #17  
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    The man here quoted me $30 to de-click a super tak : http://www.pentaxs.com/

    It's Pentax but he might also work on Contax if you ask. He's based in the US, not UK.
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  8. #18  
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    If he de-clicks and dampens for $30 that’s really good and I’d be over there in a flash but postage and tax (do I pay VAT on repairs?) will push it up too high from here in the UK.
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  9. #19  
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    I de-clicked the 50mm f1.4 MM, 85mm f1.4 MM, 35-70mm f3.5 MM and the 80-200mm f4 MM. I didn’t do the 21mm f2.8 as I’m not yet sure if I’m going to hold onto it. The price has gone a little silly on that one and my new Sigma 18-35mm arrived today. The 28mm will have to wait as the one I have is an early MM and still has the ninja so I’m looking to sell it on and find a proper MM.

    The process was relatively painless but different for each lens. The 85mm was simple you just remove the back of the lens and the ball bearing is right there. I held up a powerful little magnet and it jumped out of the body onto the magnet, then the little spring started poking its head out of the hole and I plucked him out too. The action is smooth on this one for some reason. The 50mm was more of a fiddle but I got them out in the end. The two zooms are tricky to reassemble but with a bit of jiggling they popped back together. With the 80-200mm it was harder to recover the ball and spring. I had to take more of the back section apart.

    I experimented with electrical tape to tighten it up and it works ok but not good enough for my taste. Felt was too bulky for these lenses, the tolerances are small. They are all usable and none of them would change aperture in my flick test but I want them to be nice and smooth.

    I emailed Duclos and The Lens Doctor to ask what they used and did some more research on line. Duclos got back to me and it’s as JLdp said, grease. "Damping grease" it’s called and it’s tricky to get hold of. Companies tend to have their own specific recipes made for them bespoke by grease merchants. There are a few places to get it though. I’ve found a Japanese company called Tamiya that sell a little kit with three different strengths and I think I’ll order that and see how it works, should do the trick just fine but I need to research a bit more on it first.

    Having spent some time inside these lenses now I think the grease will be ok, this damping grease should not migrate and where you would put it is relatively separate from the elements.
    If anyone knows where to find Damping grease for lenses then please post a link. Nye Lubricants, which is where people seemed to be going before for their lens repairs no longer sells it in small amounts, I think, correct me if I’m wrong.
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  10. #20  
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    After a great deal of digging I’ve settled on this one:

    Nye Lubricants 795A (NG) Synthetic Damping Grease

    Any opinions welcome? Otherwise I’ll order it tomorrow.
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